For most of us, cost can be a deciding factor when choosing which metal to use. Silver is far less expensive to work with than either gold or platinum, and for those who like to experiment with techniques
, silver is the obvious choice. There is something intimidating about trying out a new technique on several hundred dollars worth of material. But most metalworkers can afford to waste a few dollars worth of silver. Of course, all precious metals can be reclaimed by sending them to a refiner, so the metal is not really lost, but not everyone can afford to tie up a lot of money in scrap.
On occasion, it is practical to build a prototype in silver, even if the design is intended for gold or platinum. While working with the less expensive material, you can try new techniques or work out the most efficient steps for the process. This can also give you a good idea of how much time the project will take to complete, and therefore what the final price range will be. If you are trying to stay within a certain price point, it helps to know before you begin production if the time allotted is realistic.
When working on custom orders, the cost of materials is not so much of a factor. Jewelers usually require a deposit, about 50 percent of the final estimated cost, to cover the cost of materials. This should include both the metal and stones. Or if you sell your work wholesale, you know about how much metal you need for any given time period. But when doing “speculation” pieces for an exhibition, or to supply stock to a gallery on consignment, you have to buy the materials before any sale is made. And this can run into a considerable expense, especially if you choose to work in gold or platinum. For example, a large silver neck piece I recently completed cost less than $40 in silver. The same materials in 14K yellow gold would have cost more than $750. The time I spent on the project would have been about the same regardless of the material, so my labor cost is the same for either metal. But because of the difference in material cost, the silver neck piece was priced at $2,000, while in gold it would have been at least $5,000, a substantial difference.
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